Last two days at Hiva Oa

After returning the rental car, we decided to complete our exploration of the island on foot. From Hanaiapa, we took the walk to the adjacent bay of Hanatekuua, which, according to the information we received, was an hour and a half walk away. The path follows a route along the ridge of the hill overlooking the coast.

Accompanied by the bleating of wild goats and the crowing of roosters (wild as well??), it took us almost two and a half hours to reach our destination, thirsty and hungry as our provisions had not been planned for such a long walk under the sun. The fatigue was compensated by the spectacle of the bay, which appeared to us in its sparkling beauty. We managed to get ourselves “invited to lunch” by two fishermen who offered us some of their cooked fish and rice, all accompanied by a swarm of flies!

After a refreshing swim, we sat in the shade of a plant where, shortly after, we realized we were under attack by no-noes. These are invisible midges whose bites (not stings) cause intense itching that manifests after a few hours and typically lasts 7-10 days. Therefore, we fled, hoping we had escaped in time, a hope that was soon to be shattered.

The next day we decided to move by boat to the last bay in the northwest, Hanamenu, where, upon landing, we were welcomed by Te Pua and her husband, who carves wood to create handicrafts for a living. The water they use comes from a natural spring that also forms a small waterfall and a pool where it is possible to cool off and where we spotted freshwater shrimp.

Electricity is produced by a portable generator. In short, a small paradise where this couple lives, who, upon our departure, gifted us a bunch of bananas, two coconuts, several lemons, and various pampelmousse; these are “giant” grapefruits with green-yellow skin and a less bitter taste compared to the grapefruits we are used to.

Inland Hiva Oa
Fatu Hiva, the most beautiful of the Marquesas

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