On September 24th we set off again heading for Fulaga, the southernmost island of the Lau Group, an archipelago of about 60 islands in the eastern part of Fiji. The islands are characterized by crystal-clear waters, unspoiled beaches, and a blend of Melanesian and Polynesian culture.
We decided to begin our visit to this archipelago from the south, since the weather forecast called for east-northeast winds that allowed us to reach Fulaga in a day and a half. The island is one of Fiji’s most remote and fascinating destinations. The lagoon inside the barrier reef is dotted with dozens of limestone islets eroded by the sea — the famous “mushroom islands” — rising from remarkably clear turquoise water. The island is also home to a unique craft tradition: its inhabitants are among the finest wood carvers in Fiji.
A wood carver with his magnificent works
Arriving in Fulaga in the afternoon, after making our way through the pass fairly easily (we deliberately chose to cross it a bit earlier than the ideal tidal window), we found ourselves facing a scene of astonishing beauty. The lagoon was dotted with the rock formations we mentioned earlier, rising out of the water just like mushrooms. We decided to anchor right after entering the lagoon, both for the beauty of the spot and because several boats were already anchored off the main village.
First anchorage after entering the lagoon
The next day we took the dinghy to reach the main village, one of three on the island.
The landing spot to reach Muanaicake villageKingfisher at the start of the trail
After a pleasant walk through the lush vegetation, we saw the first houses lining both sides of the main path.
One of the first houses in the village, with a breadfruit treeThe island’s infirmary
Following directions from the locals, we presented ourselves to the village chief for the traditional sevusevu ceremony.
The village chief with the kava we offered him (on the right)
The “chief” assigned us a host who, as is local custom, took us around to visit the village and invited us over for lunch the following day, after Sunday mass.
Liti
Liti, our host, told us she had returned to Fulaga, her home village, after living for several years in Suva, Fiji’s capital, first to study and then to work. Her job involved managing an NGO that provides housing for those in need. After years of city life, she decided to return to her original way of life, giving up the comforts and certainties of urban existence to readapt to the simple, essential conditions of the village. That means: gathering food through fishing, growing a few vegetables, and collecting rainwater. Liti told us about some initial worries, such as the possibility of running out of water — fears her fellow villagers quickly put to rest by pointing out the abundance of coconuts, which can always be used to quench one’s thirst. On Sunday, after mass, we went to her home.
Coming out of Sunday massLiti’s house
Fijian village houses consist of a “reception” room where people gather with acquaintances and share meals, and an adjoining bedroom separated from the main room by a curtain. The kitchen and bathroom are located in two separate structures, both independent from the main house.
Liti’s kitchen
Lunch was fresh fish cooked in various ways, served with boiled cassava and rice as side dishes. We brought pasta with eggplant, which was very well received!
Liti with a friend, a primary school teacher
In the afternoon we walked over to a second village, where we were warmly welcomed by some curious children eager to make friends.
Kids from the village of Muanaira
We stayed in this little paradise for about ten days, during which we visited some of Fiji’s most beautiful beaches and made the delightful acquaintance of Albert I, a handsome white rooster, the sole inhabitant of one of the many islets scattered across Fulaga’s lagoon.
Albert I
We saw Liti often, and she got us involved in her “fishing expeditions.” Together with a friend of hers, she came for lunch on the boat and taught us how to make roti, a flatbread made of flour and water that, for us, serves as the Fijian alternative to bread.
Setting off with Liti and her friend, our “fishing instructor”Searching for shellfish to use as baitLiti: twenty fish and counting. Sergio: two.
On September 24th we set off again heading for Fulaga, the southernmost island of the Lau Group, an archipelago of about 60 islands in the eastern part of Fiji. The islands are characterized by crystal-clear waters, unspoiled beaches, and a blend of Melanesian and Polynesian culture.
We decided to begin our visit to this archipelago from the south, since the weather forecast called for east-northeast winds that allowed us to reach Fulaga in a day and a half. The island is one of Fiji’s most remote and fascinating destinations. The lagoon inside the barrier reef is dotted with dozens of limestone islets eroded by the sea — the famous “mushroom islands” — rising from remarkably clear turquoise water. The island is also home to a unique craft tradition: its inhabitants are among the finest wood carvers in Fiji.
Arriving in Fulaga in the afternoon, after making our way through the pass fairly easily (we deliberately chose to cross it a bit earlier than the ideal tidal window), we found ourselves facing a scene of astonishing beauty. The lagoon was dotted with the rock formations we mentioned earlier, rising out of the water just like mushrooms. We decided to anchor right after entering the lagoon, both for the beauty of the spot and because several boats were already anchored off the main village.
The next day we took the dinghy to reach the main village, one of three on the island.
After a pleasant walk through the lush vegetation, we saw the first houses lining both sides of the main path.
Following directions from the locals, we presented ourselves to the village chief for the traditional sevusevu ceremony.
The “chief” assigned us a host who, as is local custom, took us around to visit the village and invited us over for lunch the following day, after Sunday mass.
Liti, our host, told us she had returned to Fulaga, her home village, after living for several years in Suva, Fiji’s capital, first to study and then to work. Her job involved managing an NGO that provides housing for those in need. After years of city life, she decided to return to her original way of life, giving up the comforts and certainties of urban existence to readapt to the simple, essential conditions of the village. That means: gathering food through fishing, growing a few vegetables, and collecting rainwater. Liti told us about some initial worries, such as the possibility of running out of water — fears her fellow villagers quickly put to rest by pointing out the abundance of coconuts, which can always be used to quench one’s thirst. On Sunday, after mass, we went to her home.
Fijian village houses consist of a “reception” room where people gather with acquaintances and share meals, and an adjoining bedroom separated from the main room by a curtain. The kitchen and bathroom are located in two separate structures, both independent from the main house.
Lunch was fresh fish cooked in various ways, served with boiled cassava and rice as side dishes. We brought pasta with eggplant, which was very well received!
In the afternoon we walked over to a second village, where we were warmly welcomed by some curious children eager to make friends.
We stayed in this little paradise for about ten days, during which we visited some of Fiji’s most beautiful beaches and made the delightful acquaintance of Albert I, a handsome white rooster, the sole inhabitant of one of the many islets scattered across Fulaga’s lagoon.
We saw Liti often, and she got us involved in her “fishing expeditions.” Together with a friend of hers, she came for lunch on the boat and taught us how to make roti, a flatbread made of flour and water that, for us, serves as the Fijian alternative to bread.